A versatile skincare ingredient with documented use for acne, rosacea and uneven pigmentation, among other things.
What is it?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid used in dermatology and skincare. It has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and pigment-regulating properties and can also affect clogged pores and keratinisation.
What can it help with?
Azelaic acid is mainly used for acne and papulopustular rosacea. It can also help with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. However, there is no good clinical support for marketing azelaic acid as a general anti-ageing ingredient.
What does the research say?
Randomised trials and systematic reviews show effects on acne, rosacea and melasma. The evidence is strongest for inflammatory rosacea and acne. There is also support for pigmentation, while research on skin ageing is insufficient.
How to use it
Start gently, for example every other day, and increase according to your skin's tolerance. Apply to clean skin before moisturiser. Many cosmetic products contain lower concentrations, while medical formulations are often around 15–20%.
What can it be combined with?
Azelaic acid can often be combined with niacinamide, humectants and sunscreen. It can also be used alongside other active ingredients, but with sensitive skin it is wise to introduce one active ingredient at a time.
Who should be cautious?
It can cause burning, dryness, tingling or redness, especially at first. Very reactive skin or a damaged skin barrier may need a slower introduction.
GlowOver40 Take
An ingredient that deserves more attention than it gets. It is not “trendier” than many other actives, but it has considerably better clinical support than many viral skincare ingredients.
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